HVAC Industry?

Geno wrote: We use one now that holds a little over 5 gallons and puts out 14 gallons per day. We can keep humidity wherever we want it. It would just be nice to not have to fill it all the time, although Sandra has filling duty during the winter.

Geno I have implemented several humidifiers just like that with a couple float switches and a fill valve. Never have to fill it again just need a water line available.

That would be cool. It sits a few feet from the fridge and I guess I could split the line from the ice maker.

Geno wrote: That would be cool. It sits a few feet from the fridge and I guess I could split the line from the ice maker.

You got it!

You got the plans and the stuff?

Also with a higher RH you can usually get away with decreasing your thermostat temperature saving you money on your heating bill or in Geno's case wood.

I burn wood too, build a forced air system with the inlet right over the stove, (stove in basement) house has baseboard electric so had to build separate system. The humidifier is close to the stove so heat and moisture travel throughout the house.

So I have to mention this about the humidifiers I work with. Geno you said that the one you posted can put out 14 gallons per day. Well in this industry we typically use Lbs/Hr. So in your case, your humidifier would put out 4.86 Lbs/Hr. Which in the residential world is quite a bit.

Now the humidifier I am currently re-designing has the capability to output a maximum of 1330 Lbs/Hr. If we transfer that into gallons per day that is, 3,827.33 Gallons a day! This type of humidifier would typically be used in either the pharmaceutical industry or in a hospital to maintain RH across a whole wing or even an entire floor!

www.armstronginternational.com/files/com...rce/steamtosteam.pdf

AJ WH Ranger wrote: So I have to mention this about the humidifiers I work with. Geno you said that the one you posted can put out 14 gallons per day. Well in this industry we typically use Lbs/Hr. So in your case, your humidifier would put out 4.86 Lbs/Hr. Which in the residential world is quite a bit.

Now the humidifier I am currently re-designing has the capability to output a maximum of 1330 Lbs/Hr. If we transfer that into gallons per day that is, 3,827.33 Gallons a day! This type of humidifier would typically be used in either the pharmaceutical industry or in a hospital to maintain RH across a whole wing or even an entire floor!

Glad I am not paying a water bill on the monster.

GT 14 wrote: Also with a higher RH you can usually get away with decreasing your thermostat temperature saving you money on your heating bill or in Geno's case wood.

I burn wood too, build a forced air system with the inlet right over the stove, (stove in basement) house has baseboard electric so had to build separate system. The humidifier is close to the stove so heat and moisture travel throughout the house.

Exactly! You want to incorporate the moisture within the duct work for two reasons.
1. You get what you are talking about. A better distribution of the humidified air.
2. And this one as equally important, the higher the temperature of air = better mixing of the air and moisture. Now with out getting into the psychrometrics on a Wheel Horse Forum, hotter or warmer air can absorb much more moisture than colder air which most of us know. So that equals better mixing of water and air.

AJ WH Ranger wrote:

GT 14 wrote: Also with a higher RH you can usually get away with decreasing your thermostat temperature saving you money on your heating bill or in Geno's case wood.

I burn wood too, build a forced air system with the inlet right over the stove, (stove in basement) house has baseboard electric so had to build separate system. The humidifier is close to the stove so heat and moisture travel throughout the house.

Exactly! You want to incorporate the moisture within the duct work for two reasons.
1. You get what you are talking about. A better distribution of the humidified air.
2. And this one as equally important, the higher the temperature of air = better mixing of the air and moisture. Now with out getting into the psychrometrics on a Wheel Horse Forum, hotter or warmer air can absorb much more moisture than colder air which most of us know. So that equals better mixing of water and air.

I use physics to my advantage whenever possible. Thanks for the good advice.

Geno wrote: You got the plans and the stuff?

Yup inside my head..

The two float system is a bit trickier than a single float system. I would look for a single float with a travel distance of anywhere from an inch to 4 inches, depending how deep the tank is.

A switch like this could be used. www.fluidswitch.com/pages/documents/FS31...witchProdSht_000.pdf

Then you wire the hot or neutral directly through that switch to the new fill valve (assuming the valve is 120 VAC).

But all of this could change depending on the internals of the humidifier and what voltages are inside..