How To Make An 18 Automatic Into A 23 Automatique LSE

First I would like to say thank you to Geno for all he has done in order to accommodate this post, and also all the upcoming changes Geno is working on to improve the already good site.
Part 1:
I purchased a non-running, incomplete "Plain Jane" 18 Automatic, for $200.00 in hopes to part it out and realize enough profit to buy my middle son a new laptop.








Prior to this I had not ever heard of this model and did not know anything about it {not even that I was supposed to turn the Tow valve counter-clockwise before pushing it.} Not long into a partial dis-assembly I decided to clean up a part before taking a picture of it to post it for sale. I then wondered what it would look like if I would sand, prime and paint it. Wow, I was impressed so I grabbed another, and another, and, and... and the next thing I knew I was in the thick of a restoration. Since this tractor was incomplete and I had still not bought my son a new laptop, I bought an 18 Automatic parts tractor. Now I had some of the parts that was missing and I could sell some of the other parts and attachments, to recoup my investment. I noticed that the fenders did not cover the whole width of the 12" wheels / tires, so I took the pair from my tractor I was restoring and the pair from my parts tractor to a friend who does welding, and asked if he would trim off opposing edges

and weld the other pieces together to make 2 extra wide fenders. He is quite handy at bodywork and agreed to do it. About $200.00 later I had a pair of extra wide fenders welded, bodywork finished, primed and painted.



Now I had another problem to sort, the fenders were double wide, but the footrests were single wide.

Yep, I still had a good pair on the parts tractor, so this time I had a go at doing all the work myself,

except the welding,




which was done by my Nephew.



Now I was not just doing a restoration but a Resto-Mod. I guess I am getting ahead of myself, where was I? Oh yea Part 1:
I rewrote the parts list from an 18 Automatic because it contained errors and I wanted something I could use as a simple checklist. I also began {term used rather loosely} to make what I am referring to as an Assembly Order list.

Essentially a list of how I think my tractor should be reassembled in a logical order. In this first part I will commit to complete steps 1-23. {Please note all Parts #'s and Item #'s on the Assembly Order list are correct for an 18 Automatic even though I am using the heavy duty 1" front end.}
The frame from the tractor I am restoring had the engine mounting holes elongated

by a previous owner, but was an otherwise straight rust free frame. The frame from my parts tractor had all the parts removed and the engine mounting holes were perfect, however there was some pitting from rust on the top and sides of this frame.



I had already removed the seat spring mount in order to add a hydro fan, so I decided I would do a little bodywork to this parts tractor frame and have a nice straight frame for my Resto-Mod tractor. I did manage to get one picture of the bodywork on the frame as seen in this "just for fun" picture I took of the mock-up of my Grant / LSE style steering wheel.

Then I sprayed 2 coats of Ruste-O rattle can primer on.

I also used Ruste-O rattle can Regal Red to spray on a couple coats of color.



I used a heavy duty 1" axle instead of the 3/4" that came on the 18.




3 Grease zirks,



installed.






Axle pivot pin,



installed.



Washers,



installed.



Axle mounted.



Hex Nyloc nuts,



Hex Bolts installed.



Upper thrust washer,



Thrust needle bearing,



Lower thrust washer.



Left spindle,



Left "E"-Clip



Right spindle with "E"-Clip.



Assembly Order Part 1 complete.


I have taken some parts to be machined and welded, when these are finished I will be able to update with Part 2, Mark.

Very nice work.... :goodpost

Incredible amount of great work there Mark, and some great ideas you've come up with. :goodjob

Will be looking forward to the rest of this one.

Thanks gentlemen, I inadvertently forgot to add the pics of the edge trim in the over axle openings.











These are not OEM but I just thought I would have a go at placing a couple pieces in here and see if they will stay, sort of to protect the axle from hitting the frame, Mark.

Like!!!

Outstanding job Mark, the pictures tell it all. Thanks!

Great job Mark, you pay attention to detail. I know well how it is to get caught up in a project that started out as something else.
Looking forward to see the final results. Great welding and fab work on those fenders and foot rests. :bow1

Thanks GT, I do not know how something can become so overwhelming. Attention to detail? It certainly demands its share.
Starting out as something else, I suppose I should interject in here the reason I am naming this a 23 Automatique LSE. The 23 is part of the modification, replacing the 18 HP K482 with a 23 HP K582 the LSE is because I am using some chrome parts along the lines of a 420 LSE and the Automatique is a combination of Automatic and Atlantique as in Bugatti Atlantique Grand Sport prototype. I have spoken to the machinist / welder and it looks like he may be able to get to do some, hopefully all the work this week, Mark.

23 AUTOMATIC LSE wrote: Thanks GT, I do not know how something can become so overwhelming. Attention to detail? It certainly demands its share.
Starting out as something else, I suppose I should interject in here the reason I am naming this a 23 Automatique LSE. The 23 is part of the modification, replacing the 18 HP K482 with a 23 HP K582 the LSE is because I am using some chrome parts along the lines of a 420 LSE and the Automatique is a combination of Automatic and Atlantique as in Bugatti Atlantique Grand Sport prototype. I have spoken to the machinist / welder and it looks like he may be able to get to do some, hopefully all the work this week, Mark.

We are going down the same road. I went from 17 to 22 hp so re badge it a C-225 and put an 18 hp in my GT 14. Terry a Redo My Horse will make you a new decal to suit.

Thanks for explaining the name Mark, very cool.